First and most prominently, The Sublime Society of Beefsteaks was founded in 1735. It was not the first of such societies, as its history notes, but probably the longest-running and arguably the most prestigious...
The club had few rules other than for administrative purposes, but one rule is quite explicit, the fourth rule of the club's charter. “That Beef Steaks shall be the only meat for dinner, and the broiling begin at two of the clock on each day of the meeting, and the table cloth be removed at half an hour after three.” This truly was a society devoted to the English tradition of eating red meat, as seen in the motto “Beef and Liberty.” (SSBS personal history)
“'I have heard of a cook that used six pounds of butter to fry twelve eggs, when, everybody knows that understands cooking, that half a pound is full enough. But then it would not be the French. So much is the blind Folly of this Age, that they would rather be imposed on by a French booby than give encouragement to a good English cook.” (Intro to Hannah Glasse's "The Art of Cookery made plain and easy by a Lady")
Soyer came to London as a refugee from the French Revolution, and became chef of London's Reform Club. While Soyer was much of a character—“not unlike the beret-coiffed, baguette-toting American exchange student in Paris, straining to be more French than the French, Soyer came to London and strove to out-Byron Byron”—he also made great contributions to his contemporaries. (University of Maryland)
My personal favorite, brought to you by Mrs. Beeton, a homemaker writing on "household management":
"It has been all but universally admitted that the beef of France is gratly inferior to that of England, owing to the inferiority of pasturage. M. Curmer, however...tells us that this is a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to that of England. A Frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against the supercilious scorn expressed by Englishmen for the beef of France. 'I have been two times in England,' he remarked, 'but I nevere find the bif so superieur to ours. I find it vary conveenient that they bring it you on leetle pieces of stick, for one penny – but I do not find the bif superieur.' On hearing this the Englishman, red with astonishment, exclaimed: 'Good heavens, sir! You have been eating cat's meat.' No M. Curmer, we are ready to acknowledge the superiority of your cookery, but we have long since made up our minds as to the inferiority of your raw material."
After revolutionizing who ate out in London, Augustus Escoffier next tackled what and how. He introduced the a la carte menu and white-coat waiters. He then tormented his English diners by serving them frogs' legs disguised as Cuisses de Nymphe Aurore, or “Thighs of Dawn Nymphs.” The Prince of Wales was so amused by Escoffier's stunt that he then ordered some Cuisses for himself. “Such was the power that the Prince's whims had on society that the following year more frogs' legs were consumed in London than in Paris." (The Savoy Food and Drink Book).
And yet...after the Larousse Gastronomique (best book ever!) gives a lengthy description of English cookery...
However, although there is no single entry for French cookery, there are 17 different methods listed for preparing frogs' legs, including one called “Frogs' legs a l'anglaise,” with a decisive caveat: “This dish is called a l'anglaise solely because this is the name given to foodstuffs dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried. It is well known that frogs' legs are not appreciated in England.”
And if you needed any more proof on the inferiority of France:
Yet not all are embracing the emigration of the French, particularly the French still in France. "'Come back!' Sarkozy cried to a London hall full of expatriates last January. 'You've brought so much intelligence, imagination, passion for work and desire for success with you to London that you have helped give it vitality that Paris needs so much.'" The number of French expats in London has skyrocketed in recent years, with gourmet talents such as Pascal Aussignac seeking refuge in booming London. Aussignac came to London in 1996 after his dreams of opening a restaurant in Paris were not achieved. He now owns 3 restaurants, at which 60 French expatriates are members of the staff. “'We are children of London,' said Aussignac. 'I'm not sure people like us can go back. What would be the point? I'm a Londoner now.'" (NYT article)
hope you enjoyed! if you want to read the full 4000 words, let me know =D
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